AROUND THE COUNTRY:

Czech Tourist Authority

Staromestske nam. 6, Praha 1
phone: 2489-7390, fax: 231-4227
(Opening and closing times and dates of various castles, museums & sites)

Selected regions & some cities:

Southern Bohemia (contact: Ferda)

Ceske Budejovice (Budweis)

Ceský Krumlov (Southern Bohemia)
"There are at least 8 daily trains from Praha to Ceske Budejovice. (The ride takes from less than 3 hours to over 4 hours.) Then from Ceske Budejovice, take the 'Volary' train. (7 daily trains.) It will reach Cesky Krumlov in one hour."
"Actually, you will have to walk downhill about 2-3 km from the rail station to town. From Cesky Budejovice the bus is faster and runs more often than the train. And it takes you almost to the city gates."
"Bus from Roztyly station on Metro Line C is even better. We took bus from Cesky Krumlov to this station. 2 1/2 hours and a nice toilet at the station, then a short Metro trip back to downtown. I highly recommend this method."

Tabor

Western Bohemia

"Spas in central Europe are not like the spas in the US -- there is more of a medical/treatment emphasis as opposed to exercise and relaxation; also, it seemed to me that it was a much older (over 60) -- and less fit -- crowd than you find at a US spa. "

Karlovy Vary
"We decided to go swimming at the Thermal Hotel, since its pool is high up and you have beautiful view of the town and the promenade and all the villas on the hills surrounding it. Locals have monthly tickets and go there every day. The receptionist didn't speak English and wasn't too friendly, but she charged us 30 Kc (about US 80 cents) per person for an hour and ten minutes of swimming and no one is actually checking for how long you have been there! There are separate locker rooms where everybody walks around naked. When you want to change into your swimming suit you can't hide - no doors on the cabins. After shower, you can go swimming in the pool (at least swimming naked is not allowed!) and the water really feels great. The pool has a deep end and a section for children. A lot of people there, but it wasn't too crowded. Not a lot of room for sunbathing, but a nice bar (cappuccino 15 Kc - about US 40 cents). Once again we found English wasn't spoken and staff wasn't very friendly."

Cheb

Plzen (Pilsen)
American Center: Dominikanska 9, 306 25 Plzen, contact: Mr. John R. Hess,Tel.:(420/19) 353-20.

Northern Bohemia

Melnik

Terezin

Litomerice

Eastern Bohemia

Hradec Kralove

Moravia

Brno

Jihlava ("Having spent six months in Jihlava teaching English- I highly recommend a cafe called 'Kavarna u Frantiska' at Cajkovskeho 41. Colourful, fresh, imaginative dishes surpassed any western cuisine I tried in Prague. Meals ranged from US$1.50 - 3.50 Kc and about 40 US cents for a pivo (beer). The Kvasnicka brothers have created a great place to go on a Sunday night from 7-9pm when live piano and violin accompany your meal. No cover.")

Znojmo

Valtice - Lednice

Mikulov

Moravsky Kras

Olomouc

"Off the beaten track:"

Krkonose Mountains (Northern Bohemia)

Kutná Hora - about 70 km (44 miles) east of Prague.
"There is the 'Bone Church' in Sedlec, a suburb of Kutná Hora. The All Saint's Cemetery Chapel is decorated with the bones of some 40000 people. It came into being in the 14th century, when development forced the clearing of a nearby graveyard. Monks of the Cistercian order came up with the bright idea of using the bones for decoration. The most recent additions date from the end of the last century. It's about 2 km (just over a mile) from the centre. You can either take the city bus, walk about 20 min., taxi it (60 - 70 Kc max) or rent a bike. But if you are taking the train from Prague, the walk is only 10 min. from the 'Kutná Hora - Hlavní nádrazí' station. Although Kostnice is open on Mondays, most of the others sites are not."

One place in Bohemia that I love is a small community called Kvilda, in the Sumava Mountains. It is a wonderful place for cross-country skiing or hiking in the summer.

Marianske Lazne (Western Bohemia)

Telc (Southern Moravia)
"There are two direct daily trains from Praha to Jihlava; both arrive in the evening. (Otherwise you have to change trains in Kolin or Havlickuv Brod.) Third train runs only on weekdays and another one only on Fridays. It takes 3 hours. The right station for this direction is Praha Masarykovo nadrazi, not Praha hlavni n. From Jihlava, go to Kostelec u Jihlavy (1/2 hour, direction Veseli nad Luznici), where you have to change again. There are 15 trains a day. The ride Kostelec u Jihlavy - Telc takes 3/4 hour and there are 10 trains running daily."

in Kutna Hora: Cafe U Hradku, Barborska 33 (0327/4277)

in Konopiste: restaurant Stodola, Jarkovice (0301/250-71)

in Trebon: restaurant Bily Konicek, Hlavni nam. (0333/2248)
"If you take a train from Vienna to Prague, it will stop at Trebon. Get off. Walk two-three blocks towards the town and get a room at the Siesta Pension. (Look to your right when you get to the canal. It's the green building about 4 doors to your right before you enter the city gates.) Walk over to the Schwartzenberg Tomb and enjoy a day at this gem of a town."

Ceský Krumlov:
Hotel Ruze, Horní u. 153 (ph. 380-772-100) (fax: 380-713-1461)
"Hotel Ruze is beautiful, though extravagant. Try staying at the "U Vodníka" hostel, owned by Cal (from Toronto) and Caroline (from Boston) - a mere US$6 a night and a great time for all ages, not just 'youths.' Also, Parkan Street which parallels the river off the Main St is crammed with pensions and private rooms."
"Pub and Hotel Na louzi is a wonderful place to eat and drink and my favorite place to stay. Rooms are romantic, quiet and full of charm. All rooms have a shower and toilet, but none have a phone or TV (two reasons why I love it)."
"Restaurant 'Kristínka' Dlouhá 94 (ph., fax: 337/711533), with the view of the castle. I strongly recommend the beer gulas (they have two types: the cabbage and the beer gulas) with bread dumplings, and apple pie. They serve Budvar beer, it's always cold and just what you need after a long walk around the town. The three of us had lunch there for 550 Kc! (about US$ 14)"
"For a little more upscale meal and very romantic is the Mastal Restaurant. I highly recommend a dish called 'the Pigs Knee.' If you have the nerve and cut it open you'll find many small, lean, succulent and tender morsels of delicious meat."

in Frantiskovy Lazne: Hotel & Restaurant Slovan, Narodni 5 (0166/94-28-41)

in Marianske Lazne:

Hotel Bohemia, Hlavni tr. 100 (0165/3251) Fax: (0165/2943)

Dining: Koliba, Dusikova tr. (0165/5169)

Casino: Casino Marienbad, Anglicka 336 (0165/2056)

Nightclub: Hotel Golf, Zadub 55 (0165/2651)

in Karlovy Vary:

Hotel Dvorak, Nova Louka 11 (017/241-45) fax: (017/228-14)

Dining: Karel IV, Zamecky vrch 2 (017/272-55)

Restaurace Jeleni Skok (no phone-great view),

Casino: Lazne (017/321-00)

Nightclubs: Grandhotel Pupp, Mirove nam 2 (017/209-111)

Club Propaganda, Jaltska 7 (no phone)

in Teplice: KNAK Rock Club, Rooseveltovo namesti 3 (0417/232-84)
They publish the program in the form of a booklet with reasonable info about bands and their performances. They also have theatre, movies (no Hollywood), art, etc. The club has very good reputation, Ramones played two shows in the Czech Republic, one in Prague, the other in KNAK...

in Cheb: Kavarna Spalicek, Hlavni nam. (no phone)

Plzen: Beer-hall Na Spilce, inside the Pilser Urquell brewery
Salzmannova Pivnice Prazska n. 8: The food there was excellent: we had the gulas soup, ham plate, the usual meat dishes with bread dumplings and sauerkraut, bramboracky (potato pancakes), excellent beer... The bill for three: 540 Kc! (about US$13.50)

in Litomerice: Pivnice Kalich, Lidicka 9 (no phone)

in Krkonose Mtns: Savoy Hotel & Restaurant, 54351 Spindleruv Mlyn (0438/935-21) fax: (0438/936-41)

in Litomerice: Cinska Restaurace, Mirove nam. (0419/80-30-08)

BRNO (city phone code: 05)

Brno is the Czech Republic's second city. It is much smaller (390,000 inhabitants), quieter and less commercial than Prague. True, it has little of the beauty of Prague, but it is a pleasant enough town and an excellent centre for exploring the wonders of South Moravia: Macocha, a 138m deep abyss; Moravsky Krumlov and the wonderful Alfons Mucha museum; Znojmo and Mikulov, picturesque border towns with innumerable wine cellars; Svitavy, the birthplace of Oscar Schindler; Litomysl with its great castle and aquapark; Slavkov where you can visit the site of the battle of Austerlitz and in December watch the re-enactment...
It is two and a half hours away from Prague and there are a number of bus operators in and around the Florence bus station. The highest price is 125 crowns (about US $5). Alternately for a little more money, you can take a more scenic train ride through the Vysocina hills. It's a wonderful journey particularly in autumn or winter. (Phone of the train station in Brno: 542-214-803)

Tourist Help:

Cultural and Information Center: Old Town Hall, Radnicka 8 (ph: 542-211-090, fax: 542 210 758)
"Maps, brochures, tours, private accommodations, theater tickets, bus and train schedules... Friendly place and perfect English!"

monthly bulletin: KAM

AVOID:

Cedok: Nadrazni 2a
"The people there are evil - unless you're buying an all-inclusive trip to Tahiti... Go to the Old Town Hall Info Center instead."

Recommended:

Hotel Grand, Benesova 18-20 (ph. 542-518-111) fax: (542-210-345)

(A four star hotel)

DINING:

Laguna, Smetanova 2, Tel 541-213-781
English menu, good food, the decor is interesting. 5 mins from the centre, open noon to midnight.

Pivni Senk, Veveri, Tel 541-215-315  
Around the corner from Laguna. A very interesting place, but the menu is incomprehensible. The food is heavy but good.

Pod Radnicnim Kolem, Mecová 5, Tel: 542-211-135
"Located in downtown core, close to train and bus depots and very close to the newish mall with Palace cinemas. We ate there one night and liked it so much went back the next. Both nights excellent food, low prices, and nice setting. I loved the pepper steak."

Dávné Casy, Starobrnenská 20, tel 542-215-292, opening hours 11 am - 11 pm
"It is downtown, and has a great atmosphere - when you go downstairs, you end up in a sort of medieval cell with a lot of details. Food is fantastic (portions a bit big, but excellent), so is the beer... We do highly recommend it!!"

Casinos: Hotel Grand (see above)

International Hotel, Husova 16 (542-122-111)

Some Sights:

Stara radnice (Old Town Hall)

Spilberg Castle

Recommended Dining and Hotels in other towns in Moravia:

Telc:

Hotel & Restaurant Cerny Orel, nam. Zachariase z Hradce 7 (066/96-22-21)

Cukrarna U Mateje, Na baste 2 (no phone)

Olomouc:

Arigone, Universitni 20, (Ph: 68/523-23-51; Fax: 68/523-23-50)
This 1522 building has been masterfully renovated into an upscale 12-room hotel with exposed brick walls, beamed ceilings and restaurant with a terrace. A double room was US$58.

GrandHotel & Casino Palac, Tr. 1. maje 27 (ph.: 68/52-240-96; fax: 068/52-232-84)

Reastaurant "Moravska," Horni nam. 23 (ph, 68/522-2868)
This establisment in the cellar of an old townhouse serves typical Moravian cousine. Most diners opted for a large wooden cutting board covered with samples of pork and sausages for about US$10.

Valtice: Hotel Hubertus, Zamek (0627/945-37)

Pavlov (between Mikulov & Valtice): U Venuse wine cellar, Ceska 27 (no phone)